1. BILL OF WORKS: INSPECTION OF FLAT ROOFS

Flat felt roofs are sealed with tar, the purpose of which is to keep the water out of the felt - which otherwise will break up the felt in frost. We have been advised by Chartered Surveyors that the tar should be checked by seeing if the chippings are adherring to the tar, and that the tar is not cracked. The stone chippings are required to keep the roof cool in the sun and prevent fire. It these symptoms occur the treatment is to re-seal the roof with tar, and re-chipping. If this treatment is necessary the life of the roof will be increased somewhat. Our last roof was re-sealed once, and after that only patches showing these symptoms were treated. This proceedure is not generally known in the trade. The Building Research Station has told us that this is the correct proceedure, while generally the design and maintenance of flat roofs is at a very low technical level - causing the lives of such roofs being much less than their potential (Asphalt & built up felt roofing:durability, Digest 144). Annual inspections should also be made of the roof drains, especially after a new roof, to insure they do not get blocked.

Our original roof was a 3-layer felt roof (each layer stuck to gether with tar) with a potential live of 30 years. The present roof is a single layer stuck to a venting sheet (which is not water proof) with a potential life of 10 years (2005). If the above symptoms are found, a decison will have to be made if it will be worth while to undertake the above treatment, with the aim of extending the life of the roof somewhat above 10 years.

There are also 3 small roofs ontop of the service ducts which can deteriorate and need replacing.

The small roof over the ground floor bedrooms has additional problems of water cistern overflows onto it - and one or more of these are liable to keep its surface wet. Vegitation then grows, whoes roots may damage the felt. This small roof had the original 3-layer felt, re-sealed twice, and its design life expired in mid 2000s. It has been leaking, but June 08 correctly replaced, from a partial re-felting done in 1996. However the chippings referred to above have not been applied, together with the surface tar adhering them to the felt - these should have been in the specification. Its also doubtful if the the overlow drains will allow the rainwater to flow off the roof.

Inspect the main roof via our ladder secured to tv mast
Check the 2 drains near the N & S ends - clean out if necessary
Check the general condition of roof: there should be no blisters
Check in several places that chippings next to roof are stuck to the tar, and the tar does not appear to be cracked
Check the condition of the 3 small duct roofs: are they secured to the ducts, is the woodwork sound or is there any rot, are their felt coverings sound and securely fastended
Check that the various pipes coming up through the roof are sealed at their bases, and have wire netting ontop of them to prevent birds nesting
Report on any build up of moss or other debris

After replacement of small bedroom roof:
Apply stone chippings and surface tar
Check evidence of water overflows from Flats' overflows, note which ones
Check condition of piping carrying overflow water off the roof and that rain water can flow away

4. BILL OF WORKS: ALL 4 SMOKE ALARMS

Background

It was ageed to purchase re-chargeable batteries. A battery charger is held in Flat 2. The South Block alarms were so fitted, but one went missing in 1994, and the 1st landing battery was changed Autumn 1997, having lasted c 10 years. While these batteries appear to be prone to being stolen, provided they last 3 years they are cheaper than ordinary ones.

Re-charge batteries or buy new ones
Fit to the 4 Smoke Alarms and test
Arrangements needed to re-charge or replace them when they signal "battery low" (c 1.25 years initially each for re-charging)

5. BILL OF WORKS: PLASTER BELOW SKYLIGHTS

Any leak from skylights makes the paint on the plaster come off, then its desireable to check if any leak in the rain, and keep the paint in good condition as a mean of checking on leaks. It is not possible to get an ordinary ladder up the stairs, so it is difficult to reach the skylights

Errect suitable means of reaching the 2 skylights in N & S Blocks
Check on leaks and report
Repair Paint work of vertical walls of skylights

6. BILL OF WORKS: REPLACE LIGHT SWITCHES

The light swicthes installed in the corridors are not now generally available, and the modern ones do not now fit the recesses in the walls, requiring adapting. Around 1990 the old style switches were still being made, but could only be bought if we placed a bulk order for 6, which was done. One of these remains. . We also have 2 of the old switches - which might be re-furbished by cleaning the contact points. This may be worth attempting, since it may be even more difficult to obtain these switches now - and those removed should be retained not thrown away. Sometimes these switches stick ON - and if they do they are liable to get hot. If residents see a light on continuously they should inform a committee member at once - especially if the switch is getting hot - they are liable to burning the wire insulation, and may start a fire. 3 of the switches now installed in the block are old-style switches, and 3 are new-style switches - 2 of which need replacing.

In the North Block, Ground Floor, the switch is bound up with tape, and unless it can obviously be repaired it may be dangerous, and should be replaced

In the South Block the Ground Floor switch has a press-button which flies out, and needs replacing.

Turn mains off under stairs (key from flats 1 & 9)
Undo the 3 screws and retain them (Screws supplied with new switches usually not long enough. However some of these original screws are becoming damaged in their threads and heads, making them difficult to re-screw, and may cut hands. But the switches contain screws within them which can be used - so retain the old switches so these screws can be used)
Withdraw switch from wall mounting, its wiring will come out also
Undo screws securing wires, and carefully examine wires: if their insulation is burnt then coat these areas with polystryene dissolved in acetone (a common glue - flat 2 can supply).
When any such treatment is dry, re-connect the wires to the new switch as they were in the original one: make sure the screws are tight
Gently push the switch back into its holder - the wires should coil up inside.
Re-insert the original screws and tighten (see note above if damaged, obtained advice from flat 2)
Test the light and see how long it stays on for: these switches have a screw under the push button - turn it one way and it stays on longer, the other way less. The light should stay on long enough to reach the outside (or in the case of the ground floor to get to the top landing and open their door) but not much longer. If the timing is wrong, the three screws need to be undone and the switch withdrawn again, and the timing altered.


[Where old-style switches removed, undo the 2 * screws on base of switch, & examine the contacts. (Do not undo anything else or switch may explode). Clean the metal contacts with tissue on a fine screw-driver. Pour some white spirit into cavity where contacts go when ON, and clean with tissue on screw-driver. Test with meter (available flat 2) to see if it gives zero resistance when ON, when switch may be re-useable on upper floors. If meter does not give zero resistance, keep the 2 * screws (when can be used to mount switches on walls).
If there's any fault with the timing plunger its not worth working on the switch.]

8. BILL OF WORKS: FILL UP PASSAGE WALLS & TOUCH-UP

Background

Residents moving furiniture in and out generally cause grooves to be gouged out of the walls of the passages, which need to be filled in again annually. Then they are touched up with paint. A sizeable amount of spare paint should be obtained when walls are painted, so it is availabe to touch up in the following years. This occured when the walls were painted in 1974, and after annual wash, filling and touch-up, did not required further painting until the touch ran out in the late 1990s. The walls painted in the early 2000s, and quite likely the required supply of touch up paint was not laid in - and attempts should be made to acquire this shade.

Filling can be done before or after washing walls
Polyfilla can be used (we should have some)
Mix as in instructions, adviseable to damp the hole to be filled
Apply to all holes to be filled, and smooth down
Remove any Polyfilla from paint work with damp cloth
Some corners may be chipped and need re-making
Leave to set - after which imperfections can be sanded down, or remaining crevaces filled with further Polyfilla
Obtain touch-up paint (stirring as necessary) and apply to filled patches. More than 1 coat may be necessary

10. BILL OF WORKS: FORECOURT WALL

Background

A vehicle ran into the end of the wall. But the Committee has decided not to re-build it, instead to have a wider entrance. There is substancial re- pointing required along much of this wall, and most of the caps need to be cemented back on again.

Build a final pillar in the region where wall has been demolished
Re-build from pillar to rest of wall
Check all caps and cement on, replacing if necessary
Check whole length of the wall and re-point where necessary
see re-pointing of damp course for relevant instructions
Keep new cement work damp for few days

All caps need cementing, plus 3 of the long caps between the square caps

Drains from time to time get blocked, but when they do they are liable to result in sewerage coming out of the loos in the ground floor flats as there is nowhere else for it to go. These can result resulted in insurance claims - which can result in premium rises. There have been such floods since drains last inspected. Thus in the past annual drain inspections were established to prevent sewerage floods. Greasing manhole covers & bases on replacement is necessary to prevent them rusting together, especially the main one at the entrance.

Remove manhole cover for the drains in the forecourt
(do not need to remove those by the water drains)
Check that there is no back up of sewerage, & that the yarding eye by entrance is clear
Arrange for 1 flat in each of the 4 rises to flush a loo

- water should flow rapidly in a spurt about as long as a loo-flush
- if it comes in a dribble over a long time then it indicates a blockage is developing in that run.
Replace manhole covers [generally inspect condition of covers & bases & grease them - 1998 only needs doing for yarding eye man- hole by entrance]
Report findings

16. BILL OF WORKS: REPAIR CONCRETE

Background

The concrete at the door entrances, and through the tunnel & beyond, has previously become damaged at the surface. This is due to water seeping in, and shattering the concrete by frost action. The symptons are the surface breaking up and becoming loose rubble. The choices are to break the whole concrete up & remove it & re-lay new concrete, or attempt to repair the surface. It is not practical to attempt the breaking up treatment in the tunnel since this is the concrete raft on which the block of flats is built. Infact the concrete entrances are probably part of this raft also as it extends out the the tarmac.

In the past it has been assumed that the breaking up and re-laying would be much more expensive than repair. The repair treatment has been sucessfully done a long time ago on the south concrete entrance. Some years later it was done at various spots in the tunnel - but at this time we had a drafts- man in the block who assured us that neat cement should be used (without any sand which is usually used to make cement). Thus some patches were done with neat cement, and some done with ordinary cement. It is the neat-cement-only patches which are now breaking up. The north concrete entrance was repaired in 1993: but it was also decided to cover it after with factory floor paint as additional protection to keep out water - this was not done. Some break-up symptons are in the N concrete entrance (lesser symptoms visible in S entrance concrete, but this can probably be left for a bit). The S entrance was repaired with concrete (cement with stones in it), while N entrance was repaired with cement (i.e. sand and cement mixture). This may be the reason the S concrete has lasted longer - concete wares better. Committee decided to repair with fine - moderate concrete, and leave North entrance for the present, since more must be taken out with concrete than with cement. Thus tunnel only at present. Breaking up the concrete is probably wrong due to their being part of the concrete raft.

Specifications below assume moderate to fine concrete

• This work can only be done when there's no risk of frost whatever
• Treat damaged patches in the tunnel, along the drive to its west,
• Clear out all loose rubble, chipp out concrete back to sound
• Thoroughly clean out exacavated area with water\hosepipe
• While still wet mix fine to medium concrete as manufacturers' instructions: it is generally necessary to mix several contents together which must be done thoroughly; to add the water it is a good idea to turn the pile of concrete into a cone and pour part of the required water into the cone, and mix whole thoroughly with a spade; re-make a cone and add more water and repeat... it can be sensible to do the water adding & mixing process in the excavated hole since clearing up the concrete made elsewhere can be a messy business (brush all the dry concrete mixture into the excavated hole)
• Spread the concrete into the excavated hole: if not enough has been made to fill the hole then more concrete will have to be made, if too much then the surplus removed
• The final surface is made by getting a plank wider than the excavated area, which is moved across the repaired area with little up & down movements (these are visible in the tunnel). This produces a surface level with the rest of the concrete with good grip. You may need to add more concrete to do this properly, or this process may result in excess concrete being removed
• Leave to set, making arrangements for any foot traffic, and notices closing the tunnel for a specified period
• Concrete increases in strength over a long time if it is kept damp - tentitcals go on growing and intertwining with eachother, with stones in the concrete and the sound concrete. After setting, and for several days arrange to keep the concrete damp: a good spraying with hose pipe and covering with plastic to keep in the moisture 1 or 2 times a day is ideal

19. BILL OF WORKS: RE-POINTING WEST WALL & DAMPNESS SURVEY

The Block has suffered from dampness problems:

- *condensation running down windows & wetting curtains, especially flat 2 bedroom
- mould appearing behind furniture placed against walls
- circles of mould appearing along skirting boards of outside walls###
- dampness running down outside wall from above **

*some occurring in winter; **No direct cause has ever been found. ###advised that this is due to drips of water dropping down the cavity in the outside wall, and splattering on the concrete beams protruding into it and thus splattering onto the wall at intervals. Action has been to inspect all parts where water might be getting in, and filling up any potential entrances. This has abated problem for a while, to return a few years later. Any dampness in the wall cavity is dangerous from corrosion of the wall ties.

Dampness has occurred in bedrooms of Flats 2,3,8. Residents should periodically be asked if they have any dampness problems when a full inspection should be mounted.

The west wall has holes from TV and telephone installations. Some have been sealed up, but 8 have not been.

West wall: re-point holes where TV wires have been taken through brickwork. Re-pointing products sold ready to use in gun form are adequate for small holes

20. BILL OF WORKS: REPLACING WALL TILES

The wall tiles below flats' windows are the outer skin of the building, not decoration. These tiles tend to get broken if ladders are put up against them (which should be avoided). The tiles hang on nails, but one can only be replaced by removing the others around it, as other tiles hang over the nails of others... Only experienced contractor can handle this. The tiles at the rear (west) of the block are straightforward. But those on the east of the block are of a shape that cannot generally be obtained. After many years of search, the contractor Erector offered to replace some by cutting standard tiles, which was done satisfactorily. We may not want to use this contractor again, and he may not want to do this job if its the only one on offer. These tiles are made of cement.

Replace 1 broken tile on north west of building below window flat 11
Replace another tile here which is slipping down and likely to be dangerous
Summer 2015
Replace 1 on NE of building
Replace 5 on W of building

22. BILL OF WORKS: ANNUAL WALL WASHING

Corridor walls get dirty over a year, especially from moving furniture in and out of flats. In 1974 they were painted with paint, which was easilly washed with water and a little detergent. More stubbon marks may have to have stronger detergent or other cleaner. A large amoung of paint remaind so touch-up could continue till 1990s. Re-painting occurred in early 2000s. With high turnover of renters the walls now get dirtier.

Wash corridor walls with water and mild detergent.
Remove stubbon marks with stronger detergent, or other cleaner. Report on marks which cannot be shifted*
Rince down and dry.
Clean glass of entrance doors in and out (ground floor contract)

28 . BILL OF WORKS: INSULATION IN SERVICE DUCT IN THE TUNNEL

Background

The northern service duct, which carries water and drains, is exposed to frost in the Tunnel. Thus it was filled during the building by a flake type insulation up to the level of Flat 9's floor. When in the early years the defective plastic water pipes were replaced it was necessary to 'drain' the insulation from this duct in the Tunnel. This was done by taking out some of the bricks at the base to make an opennng, out of which the insulation was extracted. There is a larger opening at the top of the duct in the Tunnel where the Duct can be filled with insulation. More recently it was thought that the insulation had sunk putting water pipes at risk, and it was topped up with a solid fibre type - up to the level of Flat 9's floor.

Current problem Summer 2015

The plywood covers of the two openings are deteriorating. Some of the plys of the lower cover have come away, and the insulation is leaking out.

Replace both plywood covers
The upper must be cut to fit the recess
The lower is bigger than the opening, and screwed over it
Check on the height of the insulation, and top up if needed
Screw the new covers back on
They will last longer if painted and in hardboard